In Flanders Fields

Cloth Hall, Ypres

I have spent two days in Ypres, Belgium. The town of Ypres was a strategically important town to both sides during The Great War. Because of this, it had to be defended by the allied forces at seemingly all cost. The land a few kilometres away from the town formed a 'bubble' into German held territory during the war - called a 'salient'. A salient is incredibly difficult to defend as the Germans could attack the 'bubble' on three sides. Nevertheless, its strategic importance meant that it had to be held.

In the previous 500 years, Ypres was a very prosperous town and the Cloth Hall was a symbol of its prosperity. During the First World War the entire town was bombed mercilessly for almost 4 years, leaving Cloth Hall in ruins within a year of the start of the war. Its shattered shell that remained became a symbol of the 'total' war that WWI was to become. After the war it was rebuilt, as shown.


The Menin Gate ; The Last Post Ceremony


A Plaque at the Menin Gate

Every evening at 8 pm the Last Post is sounded under the Menin Gate. The Menin Gate is a memorial arch that contains about 54 000 names of soldiers whose bodies were never found in Belgium. A further 34 000 names are recorded at the Tyne Cot Cemetery (the 'overflow' from the arch). The Last Post has been played since 1928, with a 4 year gap during WW2.

Yesterday I hired a bicycle and road around the salient - as far away as Passchedaele, a name synonymous for great military blunders. The ride was about 50 km (factoring in about 5 km of wrong turns and diversions!). Also, I discovered I had a flat tyre about 9 km out from home and walked the last 2 km (cobbles are murder with a flat tyre and 90 kg on the back!).

The countryside around Ypres is beautiful and very serene. It is hard to imagine the terror of war and how it must have been. However, every second turn around a quiet country lane reveals a small cemetery of war graves. World War One is remarkable for the decision to bury the dead almost (or close) to where they fell. This leaves some very interesting and moving small memorials and cemeteries.


The Maple Copse Cemetery (mostly Canadian graves) and a shell hole

Also, you often come across small circular watering holes for cattle - it is when you realise that they are shell holes or exploded mines that formed them that you get a better appreciation for the destructive force that soldiers had to endure.

Polygon Wood 1917 ; Polygon Wood 2008


Butte Cemetery ; The Australian 5th Division Memorial

The Australian 5th Division made a successful assault on Polygon Wood in 1917. Heavy loss of life ensued in the battle with the Butte Cemetery holding many Australian graves as well as a memorial to the 5th Division. It is a very moving experience to wander through the cemetery looking at headstones of men who were often in the their low 20's. Polygon Wood changed hands several times and ultimately the front line remained as it had several years earlier - all for such a tremendous loss of life. Here are two photos, one from 1917 and one today, both showing the butte and the wood.

Tyne Cot Cemetery is the largest Commonwealth War Grave in the world. It is amazingly huge and holds the remains of many of those who fell in the disastrous Battle of Passchedaele in October 1917. Field Marshall Haig insisted the attack go ahead despite torrential rain turning the battle field into mud over the preceding weeks, to the point where many soldiers literally drowned in the mud.


Tyne Cot Cemetery

Lastly, the bike ride took me past a German War Grave at Langemark. This grave held a staggering 44 000 graves - mostly buried in mass graves.


The German Cemetery at Langemark

It is an incredible area to visit and at some stage all Australians should visit here, or Gallipoli, to see where this country identity was forged. It certainly makes you think that war should always be the last resort of governments.