Père-Lachaise Cemetery

Monday I walked around the huge cemetery that is Cimetière du Père-Lachaise. I didn't have a map, but had the sense to photograph the information board and continually refer to that on my camera. It is a very large place and nothing is marked (as it should be - it's a cemetery after-all!). Some graves were very difficult to find (but for a few people standing near them) - like Jim Morrison's (of The Doors fame). His is quite unremarkable, hidden behind another. Edith Piaf's grave was another that was very popular, and hence easier to find.

Edith Piaf's grave

Jim Morrison's grave

Oscar Wilde's grave was another of the more famous ones in the cemetery. It was in an art deco style and had a lot of writing all over it and what appeared to be kisses. It is a bit over-the-top, but then I guess that's expected.

Oscar Wilde's grave

I managed to find a few famous graves of Napoleon's Marshals of the Empire. I found the graves of 5 of the 26 Marshals - the highest order in the French Army. I have photos of two of them here (to minimise the boredom factor!) - and I promise there will not be any more Napoleonic references for the remainder of the blog!

Jean-André Masséna

(said to be the second best General after Napoleon)
Joachim-Napoléon Murat, King of Naples (see earlier portrait)

A Sunday in Paris

The Arc de Triomphe

Looking back, down the Champs-Élysées

Sunday was a day to check out a few of the touristy spots in Paris. I took the Metro to the Arc de Triomphe, and had a good look at the grand arch before walking down the Champs-Élysées to the Louvre.

The Long Gallery, The Louvre

I braved the crowd and the 9 euro entrance fee to take a look at the paintings in the Great Gallery, and of course, the Mona Lisa. Their are some very impressive paintings there and I have included a few of my favourites. The scale of David's painting representing the Coronation of Napoleon as Emperor of the French is awesome. It would cover the entire length of many Sydney homes. I have included two shots of it here - showing a bit more detail of Napoleon about to crown Josephine.

The Coronation of Napoleon by Jacques-Louis David

Murat, King of Naples by Antoine-Jean Gros

Liberty leading the French People by Eugene Delacroix

These need no introduction...

As a comparison, the day before I saw the Picasso Gallery in the Marais. Picasso's style took a dramatic turn from about 1939, to his well-known cubist period. I think he was on some seriously hard stuff, as there were a number of his works that were so weird that they could not be labelled (e.g. "A Woman on a Red Chair, or Man on his Side")!Who knows what this is of...

Cathedrals of France

My Apartment (middle window, top floor)

The classic Parisian scene of the Seine

I arrived in Paris courtesy of the TGV from Lille, arriving at Gare de Nord. Found my apartment and it was good to completely unpack my suitcase. Found lots of little cafes and bars around and participated in a couple of 'happy hours' - and then an early night! On the way home I popped into the restaurant below my apartment and had a stunning meal including pate de fois gras for an entree.

Notre Dame

Gargoyle from Notre Dame

The next morning I wandered around Notre Dame Cathedral and followed the Seine for a bit before returning home. Its nice to not have a serious agenda of sights that I must see, and to be able to just poke around.


Reims Cathedral

Today was a long day where I took the TGV to Reims. After spending some time in Reims Cathedral I was trying to imagine how magnificent it would have been when the french kings were crowned there - apparently entering the Cathedral on horse back. Joan of Arc led Charles VII to be crowned king there in 1429. I think it is a more magnificent cathedral than Notre Dame in Paris.

Scenes of Reims Cathedral

From the sublime to the ridiculous... I then walked to Pommery Champagne House to go on a guided tour and then a tasting of a lovely 1999 Vintage Pommery Champagne - beats the Minchinbury any day!! For scientific purposes it is always important to replicate experiments, so I went to G H Mumm Champagne House after lunch. Another tour - another tasting! Not as good as the Pommery, but not bad.

Hurtling back through the french countryside in the TGV got me back in time for tea - maybe an early night is needed, for more things to do tomorrow.

Cheers from Pommery's!

In Flanders Fields

Cloth Hall, Ypres

I have spent two days in Ypres, Belgium. The town of Ypres was a strategically important town to both sides during The Great War. Because of this, it had to be defended by the allied forces at seemingly all cost. The land a few kilometres away from the town formed a 'bubble' into German held territory during the war - called a 'salient'. A salient is incredibly difficult to defend as the Germans could attack the 'bubble' on three sides. Nevertheless, its strategic importance meant that it had to be held.

In the previous 500 years, Ypres was a very prosperous town and the Cloth Hall was a symbol of its prosperity. During the First World War the entire town was bombed mercilessly for almost 4 years, leaving Cloth Hall in ruins within a year of the start of the war. Its shattered shell that remained became a symbol of the 'total' war that WWI was to become. After the war it was rebuilt, as shown.


The Menin Gate ; The Last Post Ceremony


A Plaque at the Menin Gate

Every evening at 8 pm the Last Post is sounded under the Menin Gate. The Menin Gate is a memorial arch that contains about 54 000 names of soldiers whose bodies were never found in Belgium. A further 34 000 names are recorded at the Tyne Cot Cemetery (the 'overflow' from the arch). The Last Post has been played since 1928, with a 4 year gap during WW2.

Yesterday I hired a bicycle and road around the salient - as far away as Passchedaele, a name synonymous for great military blunders. The ride was about 50 km (factoring in about 5 km of wrong turns and diversions!). Also, I discovered I had a flat tyre about 9 km out from home and walked the last 2 km (cobbles are murder with a flat tyre and 90 kg on the back!).

The countryside around Ypres is beautiful and very serene. It is hard to imagine the terror of war and how it must have been. However, every second turn around a quiet country lane reveals a small cemetery of war graves. World War One is remarkable for the decision to bury the dead almost (or close) to where they fell. This leaves some very interesting and moving small memorials and cemeteries.


The Maple Copse Cemetery (mostly Canadian graves) and a shell hole

Also, you often come across small circular watering holes for cattle - it is when you realise that they are shell holes or exploded mines that formed them that you get a better appreciation for the destructive force that soldiers had to endure.

Polygon Wood 1917 ; Polygon Wood 2008


Butte Cemetery ; The Australian 5th Division Memorial

The Australian 5th Division made a successful assault on Polygon Wood in 1917. Heavy loss of life ensued in the battle with the Butte Cemetery holding many Australian graves as well as a memorial to the 5th Division. It is a very moving experience to wander through the cemetery looking at headstones of men who were often in the their low 20's. Polygon Wood changed hands several times and ultimately the front line remained as it had several years earlier - all for such a tremendous loss of life. Here are two photos, one from 1917 and one today, both showing the butte and the wood.

Tyne Cot Cemetery is the largest Commonwealth War Grave in the world. It is amazingly huge and holds the remains of many of those who fell in the disastrous Battle of Passchedaele in October 1917. Field Marshall Haig insisted the attack go ahead despite torrential rain turning the battle field into mud over the preceding weeks, to the point where many soldiers literally drowned in the mud.


Tyne Cot Cemetery

Lastly, the bike ride took me past a German War Grave at Langemark. This grave held a staggering 44 000 graves - mostly buried in mass graves.


The German Cemetery at Langemark

It is an incredible area to visit and at some stage all Australians should visit here, or Gallipoli, to see where this country identity was forged. It certainly makes you think that war should always be the last resort of governments.

Where I met my Waterloo...

The Lions Mound (Butte de Lion) and the battlefield view.



La Haie Sainte


Sunday I went to Waterloo. It was a bit of a trek - had to catch a bus about 20 km to the sight of the famous battle, but made it alright. In 1822 (7 years after the battle) apparently women brought soil from around the area and over a two year period (by hand) erected this 40 m mount called Butte de Lion. This is where the Prince of Orange was wounded in the battle. From it you can see the battlefield, including La Haie Sainte, which was one of the three farmsteads that Wellington used as part of his defences. La Haie Sainte was the only one the French actually took that day.

The photos are of the mound, then one of the battlefield from the top of the mound. Across this section is where Marshall Ney let cavalry charges for two hours against the British squares.

Then I wandered down the road towards Charleroi to the site of the farmhouse La Haie Sainte - here are some signs commemorating the successful french assault (the only one).

Lastly, on my return to Brussels I took a photo of the Manneken - pissing (pissing boy) - the simple of Brussels (don't ask me why he is pissing or why it's the symbol - but the Belgians are all strange!).

The pissing boy!

Off to Ypres tomorrow for two days.

Mussels in Brussels

Yesterday I travelled from Amsterdam to Brugge via Antwerp. It ended up being a bit of a trip as I left my case in a locker in Antwerp and so had to return to the station to collect it on the way to Brussels. It would have been easier going straight from Brugge to Brussels, but the eurail pass covered it anyway (I took 5 trains yesterday - should have been 4 but some Belgian Railways Information officer sent me on a train in the wrong direction... I am not sure if it's how they get their kicks with the tourists??). Here's a photo of Antwerp Station - it is a magnificent building.

I arrived at Brugge not knowing what to expect - but it was rather overwhelming. Wherever you directed the camera you got a picture postcard scene. I found it all a bit too much actually as it was full of tourists and, while it is a remarkable example of a wholly preserved town, it reminded me of Disneyland. I spent two hours there - as I had to be in Brussels by about 6 pm to check-in to my B&B. The B&B is nice and it's a pleasant change to have a shower and large bed in the room - compared to the postage stamp sized room in Amsterdam. I have decided to spend two days in Ypres after Brussels and booked a good room in the Shell Hotel. I thought it would be good to see the WWI graves as well as the town itself.

Today in Brussels I had a look around the Grand Place - amazing Guild Halls from the 17th Century. I then took public transport to see the Atomium - quite the contrast - so space-aged and yet 50 years old now. The first photo is Hotel d'Ville and the second for a contrast is the Atomium. Enjoyed a nice belgian beer in Brussels - gotta love how they make beer here!








Me at The Atomium

Queens Day in Amsterdam

Wednesday was Queens Day - the Dutch National Day. Everyone wears orange (so not my colour) and parties throughout the day and into the night. It's absolutely huge.Here are some photos of only part of the party in the streets, overladen boats on canals, the aftermath (me looking a bit worse for wear) and the street the day after...

Off to Brussells tomorrow!